No bleach! Bleach, aside from toxicity issues on its own, shouldn’t be mixed with ammonia (the main component of cat pee) because it will result in things that shouldn’t be inhaled, like chloramine gas, hydrazine, or nitrogen trichloride (depending on the amounts of ammonia and bleach).
Vinegar is a cat-safe alternative to bleach, and you can use it outside, although keep in mind that vinegar will kill plant life, so dump it over weeds or in an area with no vegetation. Litter dust and residue can clog your sink, so after dumping the litter, give the box a good wipedown before cleaning it in a sink.
Another option that can save you time and aggravation are litter box liners, as long as your cats don’t notice and/or hate the texture and refuse to use the box.
Amazon has a good selection of rubber brooms. What’s also indispensable when dealing with pet hair are rubber gloves. Just the regular yellow ones you can find anywhere. They’ll take hair and fur off way better and faster than a lint brush. Also, it may be worth talking to your vet and seeing if something in your dog’s diet may be contributing to the shedding, possibly seeing if a professional grooming helps, and obviously frequent brushing. Not everyone has luck with the Furminator, but frequent brushing of any kind allows you to control when and where large amounts of hair are removed.
Damp cloth is good (remember to get filters and rubber seals and gaskets, too). Electrostatic cloths (like a dry Swiffer cloth) work, too. If the machine is dry, you can vacuum the hair out. You can also vacuum the items before you wash them, which can minimize the amount of hair going into the washer in the first place.
Ooh, timely! I just adopted a new dog, and we found out that, like many dogs who had been living in close quarters with many other dogs and poor sanitation (she had been surrendered to the rescue by an animal hoarder), she came with some uninvited intestinal guests. So I have just been through all of this.
First thing: Talk to your vet. If your dog has another type of infection like giardia, your cleaning options will be different, as giardia is way more hardy than most types of worms. Your vet may also give you specific cleaning/disinfecting instructions.
Second: Pick up after your pet! Since worms are transmitted primarily through feces, you greatly decrease the risk of re-infection if you pick up after your dog and dispose of everything outside of the house. If the dog hasn’t gone to the bathroom in the house, the risk of hookworm eggs being present is greatly decreased, although not non-existent.
Third: Yes, smaller Rug Doctors exist. However, the contract you sign, I believe, specifically tells you not to use bleach in the machine. As Rug Doctors do not actually produce steam, use the hottest water possible and an EPA-approved cleaner.
Bleach will discolor most carpets, and unless you own your own carpet cleaner/steamer, you shouldn’t use bleach in carpet cleaning machines, for reasons not least of which include the fact that the next person to use it may inadvertently bleach out their carpets, and you’ll be on record as the last person to have used that machine. I own a vacuum-style carpet cleaner (with dogs, it comes in handy a lot), and I have used bleach in it, but my carpets are off-white (not my selection).
If you own a steam mop or hand-held steamer, you can steam the carpet. It won’t lift out dirt, but with constant steam exposure of several minutes, you can sanitize one small area at a time of your carpet. Important here is actual steam, and prolonged constant steaming of one area.
Fortunately, with good household hygiene and a thorough cleaning, your home should be hookworm-free when your dog is.
A brush with rubber bristles (like this, or there are tons of other styles) works way better than lint rollers and with no waste. Some people swear by using an anti-static spray like Static Guard, but the smell of it makes me sneeze, so I can’t vouch for that.
Make sure you’re brushing your cats, too. The more loose fur/hair you can get off of them under your conditions, the less will end up everywhere else. I swear by Furminator products.
You need an enzymatic cleaner like Nature’s Miracle, Simple Solution, or Anti-Icky-Poo. Cat pee is notoriously difficult to eradicate, so you need to pull out the big guns. I’m tagging this “team cat pee” so you can browse back through the archives.
You need an enzymatic cleaner like Nature’s Miracle, Simple Solution, or Anti-Icky-Poo. The enzymes in the cleaners will break down the organic matter causing the stink. Steam cleaners won’t actually remove the cause of the odor. I believe NM makes a cleaner that’s meant to go in a carpet steamer, but I’ve always had better luck just saturating the area and letting it air dry. This will also help prevent re-marking.
To find where they’ve peed, invest in a hand-held black light (I got one on Amazon for $6, I think), and in the dark, the areas they’ve peed will fluoresce yellow. Resist the urge to black light your entire home because that never leads anywhere good. (Interesting fact, laundry detergent fluoresces bright white under a black light. So if you black light your laundry room, the various drips and spatters will look like someone committed a Tide homicide in there.)
Also, this may be obvious, but make sure your pets have ample opportunity to go outside (or, in your cat’s case, a clean, accessible litterbox or two that he or she will use regularly).
Oh, puppies. So cute. So much work. So destructive.
If you aren’t already, I might suggest getting him comfortable in a crate for short periods of time at first so you can get some stuff done without him underfoot.
Also possibly useful: meal plan. Try to have at least a rough idea what you want to eat for the week, and when you do have a spare few minutes, prep what you can. See if you can find 20 minutes a day where the puppy doesn’t need your constant attention (and hell, if he does, leash him to you so he can’t get into too much trouble), and tackle whatever the worst area is.
And keep in mind that puppies aren’t puppies for that long. He’ll chill out, he’ll get over the stomach bug, and when he settles down a little, so will your life.
One reason I love UFYH is that it’s explicitly intended to be accessible by people with different physical and mental health capabilities (THANK YOU FOR THAT, SO MANY TIMES OVER!), and while my house is by no means entirely unfucked, due to a nightmare move + major health issues this year, I have found a few ways to do household chores that had become more and more difficult as time went on/various injuries accumulated.
(I have Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome, a connective-tissue disorder, and the TL;DR version of what that means is that I get hurt easily, I heal slowly, my joints and spine are hypermobile, and I have a growing collection of permanent soft-tissue injuries, along with the bonus super-fun double-punch of trigeminal neuralgia and chronic migraines, common in EDSers. You could think of me as someone with a bad back, bad knees, bad shoulder — you get the idea.)
I’ve recently found a couple of tricks that are really helping me maintain, even when my back is fucked or when I’m having trouble getting up/down off the ground. The three tasks that I identified as most difficult AND most likely to cause injury (in this case, they had a high likelihood of throwing my back out) were scooping the catboxes, loading and unloading the dishwasher, and loading and unloading the (floor-level, front-loading) washer and dryer. All of these required either sitting on the floor or bending way over and reaching forward, and they were hurting me all too often.
I bought an appropriately-sized Ikea tabletop from the options here(59”x29.5”, for my space, and I chose the “Vika Amon” style):
I then bought the *adjustable* (this part is crucial!) Vika Kaj style legs, which have a minimum height of about 2 feet off the ground.
And then I bought a Torbjörn adjustable office chair (I wouldn’t use this to sit in for long, but that’s not what it’s for — it’s crucially light, easy to move, has swiveling wheels, and *it adjusts down to about two feet off the ground.)
You may see where I’m going with this — the litterboxes went up on the assembled table (with a temporary intermediate step in between for my elderly chubby cat who doesn’t like to jump — will be looking for a more permanent cat-stairs arrangement in future), I can wheel the chair up to the table, level with the litterboxes, and scoop away to my heart’s content. (Okay — to the CATS’ hearts’ content, to be fair.)
The “scooty-chair,” as I have so dubbed it, is also immensely helpful in loading/unloading the dishwasher, and it even fits into my closet-sized laundry room in order to let me load and unload the washer without wrecking myself.
I’m really pleased, because it means that I have to rely on my (non-live-in) partner for fewer things, and it also means that I feel more independent and can unfuck these portions of my house without worrying that half the time I’ll wind up hurting myself in the process! :D
BTW, I can usually be found at http://ashbet.tumblr.com/ :)
Excellent ideas! Thanks for passing them along!
scatteringashes asked you:
I have a two part question. We recently got new chairs and a table. The chairs are at least pretending to be leather, and my cat has claws. He has a whole dedicated covered-in-carpet cat thing to deal with his claws, but I’ve recently caught him taking scratches at our new chairs. Part I: Does anyone know how to talk a cat into not scratching a chair? Part II: Is there anything I can do to make remove the claw marks from the chairs? They’re only a small, few now, but I hate them. A lot. Thanks!
A leather conditioner or polish should help blend the scratches back into the material. As for keeping the cat away from the chair, the old pennies-in-the-can trick is a classic, as is a spray bottle of water (although I don’t know if that’s still a valid training tool).
Cat people, I know you have opinions about this. Have at it.
I didn’t get as much done as I had anticipated (that’s usually how it happens anyways), but the silence while the kids were at school and Hubby was at work was amazing.
I got all of the dishes done, and instead of finishing the laundry I cleaned the bathroom instead. I cleaned off the shelf unit and decided to keep it. I started decorating it which helped de-clutter other areas of the living room.
Back away from the canines with the vinegar. And the Suave, too, preferably. Human shampoo can cause irritation on your dogs’ skin. I’d pick up some dog shampoo; they even make kinds specifically for stink control, and keep in mind that bathing the pups too often isn’t good for their skin or coats.
Cat pee advice!